Tuesday, December 16, 2014

A White Paper Report

as we are all racing around, with Christmas on the horizon & then the
New Year chiming in, I wanted to tell each of you how much I appreciate your continued
each time I receive your comments I think how much better my world is
because of blogging.

Happy Holidays to each of you, my friends !!!

& now
an article about 
by Tony Glenville, Journalist & Creative Director of London College of Fashion,
which appeared in 'NOW FASHION'



Elie Saab Haute Couture - Backstage

What is true luxury in fashion today?
Is it something you don’t need, a frivolous thing, thus a luxury? Is it something ridiculously expensive which flashes “I am so rich I can afford this”? Or is it, as it is in my book, simply the pinnacle of perfection?
In recent seasons fashion has fastened onto two key trends: Minimalism and simplicity, as exemplified by Phoebe Philo at Celine, and Normacore, which is fashion based around clothing basics and “normal” dressing.
Although “trends” in both cases, they actually have a closer affinity to luxury than, in many ways, do high end designer and label fashion or the hot fashion “must have” look of the moment.
True luxury NEVER shouts or declares its presence; true luxury whispers. True luxury is never overstated. In design terms, tiny details mark out luxury from the everyday –in the basic or the essential, the classic or a sparingly minimal design.

But luxury is not limited to clothing.
Take, for example, an invitation to an event, and simply evaluate all the elements.
Hand delivered of course, the rustling tissue lining to the thick heavy envelope. The way the envelope is sealed: hopefully with wax and a crest. The thickness of the card it contains, possibly gold edged. The slight creaminess of its white hue, the surface texture of the paper, the Nicholas Ouchenir calligraphy spelling out your name, the discrete location of the event. The limited number of invitations you know have been sent out. All these things can indicate luxury on one simple item.
Attention to every element of the finished invitation has been examined; no detail is too small not to be scrutinized.
Above all luxury has to take time. Time, which itself is a luxury, since you cannot rush or take shortcuts for quality.
In fashion terms this means the touch of the fabric, the discretion of the color, the hand stitching. Buttons can make or ruin a garment and the quality of the lining or the way a zip is inserted are not just elements in the construction of a piece. For the luxury fashion connoisseur they are vital elements leading to a purchase. The pitch of a collar is as important as the shade of camel for the season, the angle of a pocket flap in relation to the positioning of the buttons is as considered as is the entire garment’s proportion. The hand embroidered loop for the hook at the top of the zip closure is luxury in miniature, just as the hand sewn button holes on a suit cuff, which are fully functional, are a sign of attention to detail.
The backbone of luxury is mainly established through houses whose integrity of design, fabric and production is consistent and enduring. Heritage and establishment are the rock solid foundation for many luxury names across the globe; Locke & Co, Swaine Adney Brigg, Chaumet, TrussardiBrunello Cucinelli, Lodenfrey, Loro Piano, FerragamoRoger VivierBallyHermes, Moynat, Brioni, Henry Poole, Falke, Dunhill, and others cover many requirements for the luxury world from tiara to umbrella, from sweater to suit.
Labels are rarely featured, since only other luxury cognoscenti will recognize the workmanship, craft and style. Seasons slowly merge into each other, silhouettes and shapes evolve through extraordinary technical developments, and often the designs from the archive are mined, proving their quality and staying power.

In all this, luxury is also clearly linked to Made to Measure for men and Haute Couture for women.
The luxury of a shirt tailored to fit perfectly with a collar, which does not choke or hang loose; sleeves exactly the correct length to show exactly the correct amount of cuff -- Charvet will provide such a shirt.
Such made to measure shirts and suits tailored to discretely balance the wearer’s shoulders or slim his waist are why bespoke not only continues but indeed flourishes in these days of technology; the gym alone cannot correct every physical defect for a man.
The perfection of a bespoke suit -- which enhances where it should enhance and disguise where it should disguise -- is as inestimable as couture is for any woman -- as the ateliers which are constantly buzzing at Chanel Haute Couture bear witness to.
Clients will tell you that even surgery cannot give you a longer neck or more delicate hands, but a couturier’s skill with adjusting a collar or flaring a sleeve to within a millimeter can create illusions a magician would be proud of. The off the peg strapless dress which never quite fits because one size is too big and the other too small, and somehow the alterations in store didn’t work; the suit jacket which seems to button precisely across the owner’s paunch -- luxury customers know nothing of this, since the minute adjustments and the crafts peoples’ approach to all this is simply: we will deal with it, and it will be perfect.
Luxury is the soul of discretion; if the clothes whisper, the teams of luxury artisans and the vendeuse, fitter or salesman remain silent. The conspiracy between those who buy luxury and those who enable them to purchase it is a knowing smile about the lips and a small bow. Thank you, Sir.
Finally, it is important above all to remember that luxury is possibly the most sustainable element within “fashion” because it is outside fads and fancies and never goes out of fashion. It is made to last a lifetime, and the after care is exemplary due to the enduring relationship between the client, the company and the product.
Even after the owner’s death, the luxury piece can either be bequeathed to the family or auctioned for more than it originally cost.
Luxury is eco and investment in one perfect whispering beautiful heirloom package.

for me, this article tells the entire story of the classification of
Luxury Products
which is a huge segment of the world market.



Rié | Portobello Design Blog said...

Marsha, I so enjoyed reading this post; I like the idea of luxury IS the details. An invitation to an event, and simply evaluate all the elements. Hand delivered, rustling tissue, thick, heavy envelope, gold edge, a creaminess to the white hue... And the idea that other luxury people and houses would recognize the workmanship even if it wasn't labeled. I have been "caught" in time before just looking, trying to look deeper at something, only to realize it's a ___. Then I understand what I am looking at and while I am re-looking, I then realize it's because of the attention to details that had caught my attention. I want to take this lifestyle and apply it to all I do, including my friendships and family. Thank you for the inspiration. Would you please send my your address, I have something I would like to send to you my dear friend. xx Rié riemoratto@gmail.com

Marsha Splenderosa said...

Ahhh, what a comment! Translate to every part of your life...what an idea, Rie.
You've definitely got it!
I'm emailing you with my address, & thank you so much for your friendship.

Casa Très Chic said...

Have yourself a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year, full of blessings!
And thank you for sharing with us all these wonderful inspirations.
Have a nice day!

VM Creation Atelier said...

Such an absolutely deep and much mening post,Marsha!
You'r my hero,yes iT is.....
What a Greet and SO nessesary look inside to a "luxury":)
I mean for everyone of us and very deeply touched me too.....
Love you,